Spikes vs Netting for Pigeons: Which Deterrent Actually Works?

Spikes and netting are the two most effective humane deterrents for pigeons in the UK — but they solve different problems. Spikes stop pigeons landing on narrow surfaces like fence tops, ledges and gutters; netting blocks access to larger open areas like roof voids, solar panel gaps and courtyards. Choosing the wrong one means spending money on something that either won't work or is far more complicated to install than the job needs.

What problem are you actually trying to solve?

Before comparing products, it helps to be specific about what the pigeons are doing — because the behaviour determines the solution.

• Landing and fouling on a fence top, wall, window ledge, gate post or gutter edge → this is a perching problem. Spikes are designed for exactly this.
• Roosting or nesting under solar panels, in a roof void, in a courtyard recess, or behind an air conditioning unit → this is an access and shelter problem. Netting is usually the right answer here, because there's a gap or cavity that needs to be physically blocked rather than a surface that needs to be made uncomfortable.
• Gathering in an open flat area like a flat roof, balcony or loading bay → this is a congregation problem. Large flat areas can be spiked if the pigeons are landing on specific edges, but full-coverage netting or a combination approach works better when the whole surface is being used.

Getting clear on this one question saves you a wasted purchase.

Where spikes work better than netting

Spikes outperform netting on any narrow, linear surface where pigeons land but don't nest. The key surfaces:

Fence tops and wall cappings — the classic use case. Pigeons land here before dropping into a garden, and a continuous run of spikes along the top removes that staging post entirely. Spikes are quick to fit, low-profile, and need no framework.

Window ledges and sill edges — netting would require fixing a frame across the whole window reveal, which is awkward and often not possible on a rented or listed property. A strip of spikes along the sill does the job in ten minutes.

Gutter edges and fascias — pigeons queue along gutters before flying up to a ridge. Spikes fit directly onto the gutter lip or fascia board. Netting across gutters is possible but tends to catch leaves and debris, causing blockages.

Gate tops, posts and fence rails — awkward shapes that netting can't easily follow. A spike strip that folds and wraps around three sides of a post handles geometry that netting simply can't.

Shed and garage rooflines — the edges and ridge are landing points. Spikes on the ridge cap and along the eaves are faster and cheaper to install than a full net over the roof.

One thing worth knowing about spike design: not all spikes stop the same animals. Standard flat single-height spikes deter birds but let cats, squirrels and foxes walk straight over them — the animals just step between the tines. ThornGuard spikes use an irregular three-height design (12 mm, 22 mm and 36 mm tines in a staggered pattern) which disrupts the footfall of climbing animals as well as birds — useful if your fence problem involves more than just pigeons.

Where netting works better than spikes

Netting is the right choice when you need to physically exclude pigeons from a space, not just discourage them from landing on an edge.

Under solar panels — the gap between the panel and the roof tile is the most common pigeon nesting site in UK gardens right now. Spikes can't be fitted inside that gap. Solar panel pigeon mesh — a rigid or semi-rigid netting fixed around the panel perimeter with clips — blocks the gap entirely. This is a job you can do yourself if you're comfortable on a roof, or have done professionally.

Open roof voids and eaves gaps — if pigeons are getting inside a roof space through a broken soffit or open eaves, the gap needs to be physically blocked. Wire mesh or rigid netting fixed over the opening is the only reliable answer. Spikes at the entrance won't stop a determined pigeon trying to reach an established nest site.

Large flat roofs — if the whole surface is being used as a roost rather than just the edges, netting tensioned across the roof area on a pole-and-wire frame creates a physical barrier. This is a significant installation job, usually done by a specialist, and costs considerably more than spikes.

Enclosed balconies and courtyards — where pigeons are flying into a space rather than landing on a surface, netting across the opening is the only option that works.

Can you use both together?

Yes, and in some situations you should. The most common combination is:

• Netting to close off the nesting site (e.g. under solar panels or in an eaves void)
• Spikes along the ridge, gutters and fence top to stop pigeons regrouping nearby and trying alternative routes

If you solve one without the other, pigeons will often shift rather than leave — blocking under the solar panels while leaving the fence top clear just moves where they sit.

Cost comparison: what to budget

Spikes are generally much cheaper per metre than professional netting installations.

• DIY spike strips: expect to pay roughly £1.50–£3.50 per metre of coverage depending on brand and quality. ThornGuard's 4 m pack covers up to 12 m when split lengthways, which brings the per-metre cost down significantly for longer runs.
• Solar panel mesh kits (DIY): sold per panel, typically £20–£50 per panel depending on panel size and clip type.
• Professional netting on a flat roof or large balcony: can run into several hundred pounds once you include the frame, tensioning wire and labour. For large commercial jobs, quotes are typically £10–£25 per square metre installed.

For most homeowners dealing with a fence, a shed, a gutter run or a couple of window ledges, spikes are the cost-effective answer. Netting earns its higher price on jobs where physical exclusion is the only option.

Which is more durable over time?

Both degrade in UV light, but quality varies a lot between products.

Cheap spike strips made from recycled or mixed-grade plastic often go brittle within a year or two — the tines snap, the base cracks, and you're replacing the lot. Spikes made from UV-stabilised virgin polypropylene hold their structure significantly longer; ThornGuard uses this grade of material specifically to avoid the brittleness problem that gets reported with budget options every winter.

Netting durability depends heavily on the gauge of the mesh and whether it's UV-stabilised. Thin polyethylene netting sold cheaply online often disintegrates within two or three seasons. Heavier gauge knotted or woven polyethylene netting — the type used in professional installations — lasts considerably longer but costs more upfront.

In both cases: buy quality once rather than cheap twice.

Fitting: how difficult is each option?

Spikes are a DIY job for almost everyone. Measure the run, cut the strips to length (spikes can be cut across the sections with scissors or a craft knife, or split lengthways to cover more ground), then fix with the included screws into wood, or cable ties onto metal railings. For surfaces you can't drill — render, uPVC, glass — waterproof adhesive pads are the alternative. The whole process for a standard garden fence is a couple of hours.

For a full step-by-step walkthrough, see our fitting guide.

Solar panel mesh is DIY-possible but involves working at height, which adds a safety consideration. If you're not comfortable on a roof, this is one to have done professionally.

Roof netting on a frame is almost always a professional installation — tensioning wire across a roof correctly requires the right fixings and experience. Attempting it without the right equipment leads to slack nets that pigeons simply push under.

Common questions

Do bird spikes work on pigeons specifically, or just small birds?

Spikes work on pigeons — they're one of the primary target species. Pigeons are larger and heavier than most garden birds, which means they need a wider stable surface to land on; well-fitted spikes deny them that surface. The key is covering the surfaces pigeons actually use, not just one section of a fence.

Will netting harm pigeons if they get caught in it?

Properly fitted netting should exclude pigeons entirely, not trap them. Always use a mesh size appropriate for pigeons (typically 50 mm for general exclusion) and ensure the netting is taut with no loose folds where a bird could become entangled. If you find an active nest with eggs or chicks behind existing netting, do not disturb it — nesting wild birds are protected under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 and must be left until the nest is vacated.

Can I use spikes on a fence I share with a neighbour?

You can fit spikes to your side of a shared fence, but it's good practice to let your neighbour know — both as a courtesy and to avoid any dispute about the fence structure. Spikes fitted on your side, pointing away from the boundary line, are entirely within your rights. For a fuller look at the legal picture, see our guide on whether you can put spikes on a garden wall.