How to Stop Pigeons Landing on Your Fence

The most reliable way to stop pigeons landing on a fence is to fit deterrent spikes along the top rail — they remove the flat perching surface pigeons need to settle. Netting works too for enclosed areas, but for an open fence run, spikes are quicker to fit, lower maintenance, and more durable long-term.

Why pigeons keep choosing your fence

Pigeons aren't landing on your fence by accident. They're looking for a few specific things: a raised vantage point with a clear view of the surrounding area, somewhere flat and stable enough to rest or preen, and ideally proximity to a food source — your garden, a nearby bird feeder, or a neighbour's compost bin.

Fence tops are perfect for all of this. A standard close-board or panel fence gives a pigeon a long, flat, uninterrupted perch at head height. Once one bird finds it, others follow — pigeons are flock animals and will return to the same spots repeatedly. The mess accumulates fast, and the guano can stain timber, accelerate rot, and make surfaces slippery.

The solution is simple: make the top of the fence physically impossible to land on comfortably.

Do bird spikes actually work on fences?

Yes — when fitted correctly, spikes are one of the most effective long-term pigeon deterrents available. They work by breaking up the flat surface. A pigeon approaching a fence top covered in spikes has nowhere to set its feet, so it veers off.

The important word is correctly. Spikes only work if they cover the full width of the fence top and are fixed securely enough that they can't shift or be knocked aside. Gaps in coverage — even short ones — give pigeons a landing spot, and once they find it, they'll use it every time.

One common failure point is cheap single-height flat spikes. These have all the tines at the same height, which is fine for deterring birds on a flat ledge. But on a fence top — especially a rounded or capped one — the base sits unevenly, leaving the spikes tilted and ineffective. Some pigeons simply step between them.

What about netting, decoys, and other methods?

Netting works well for protecting a specific area — a vegetable patch, a balcony ceiling, or a gap under solar panels — but it's not practical for a long open fence run. It requires a frame structure to tension it against, needs regular checking for gaps, and can trap birds if not maintained properly.

Decoy predators (plastic owls, hawk kites) have a short shelf life. Pigeons are quick to habituate — most are ignored within a week or two, especially if they're static.

Reflective tape and CDs create some visual disturbance but aren't reliable in low-wind conditions and have no effect on bold or experienced birds.

Gels and liquid deterrents are messy, wash off in rain, and can cause welfare issues if birds get the sticky substance on their feathers — best avoided.

For a fence top, physical exclusion (spikes or a purpose-built fence-top roller system) is the only method that holds up year-round without regular intervention.

How to fit spikes along a fence top properly

Fitting spikes to a fence is a straightforward job — most homeowners can do a full fence run in an afternoon. Here's how to do it cleanly.

What you'll need:

• Deterrent spikes (measure your fence run first — see below)
• Screws or cable ties (most packs include both)
• A drill and appropriate bit if screwing into timber
• Waterproof adhesive pads for surfaces you can't drill (uPVC capping, rendered walls)

Step 1 — Measure the run. Walk the fence and note the total length. Factor in any posts or caps that break up the top rail — you'll need to cut around these or fit shorter pieces.

Step 2 — Choose your fixing method. Timber fence rails and tops take screws directly. If your fence has a uPVC or aluminium capping strip, or if you're fitting to a rendered wall cap, use adhesive pads rather than screwing through the cap.

Step 3 — Cut strips to length. Most spike strips are designed to be cut to size. ThornGuard strips, for example, can be cut across their four sections to get shorter pieces for tight gaps, or split lengthways to extend coverage on narrow surfaces.

Step 4 — Fit end-to-end with no gaps. Butt each strip up against the last. Where you reach a post, trim a strip to fit around it rather than leaving a bare patch. Posts are a favourite alternative landing spot if the rail between them is covered but the post cap isn't.

Step 5 — Wrap over the top, not just on one face. Pigeons approach from multiple angles. A spike strip that only covers the very top surface and leaves the front face of the fence bare gives a bird somewhere to grip and shuffle across. Strips that can fold and wrap around three sides of the fence top — top, front, and back — give complete coverage.

See our fitting guide for diagrams showing how to wrap posts and rails on three sides.

How many metres of spikes do you need?

Measure your fence run in metres, then add roughly 10–15% for cutting waste and post sections. If you're wrapping the spike strips around the full top of the fence rather than just laying them flat, you'll need slightly more to account for the extra coverage per strip.

ThornGuard comes in a 4m pack (10 strips) and an 8m pack (20 strips). Because the strips can be split lengthways for narrow surfaces, the actual coverage you can get is up to 12m from the 4m pack and up to 24m from the 8m pack when the run is narrow enough to suit a half-width strip.

Won't spikes hurt the pigeons?

No — humane deterrent spikes are designed to make landing uncomfortable, not to injure. A pigeon approaching a spiked surface will pull away before making contact; it doesn't attempt to land through spikes the way a cartoon character might. The same applies to other birds. The RSPB and British pest control industry guidance both acknowledge physical exclusion spikes as an acceptable, humane method when fitted correctly.

The key word is correctly fitted. Spikes that are too far apart, poorly secured, or positioned so a bird could land between them and become trapped are a welfare problem. Tight, even coverage with no large gaps is both more effective and safer.

Will spikes stop squirrels and cats as well as pigeons?

Standard flat bird spikes with uniform-height tines will not stop squirrels, cats, or foxes — these animals simply step between the tines. If you also have climbing animals using your fence, you need a spike design with irregular, multi-height tines that prevent a paw or foot finding a flat footing.

ThornGuard uses a three-height spike pattern (12mm, 22mm, and 36mm) specifically to address this — the staggered heights mean there's no stable platform for a climbing animal's foot, while also deterring perching birds. If squirrels are already crossing your fence to reach your garden or bird feeder, fitting a dual-purpose spike is more efficient than tackling birds and climbers separately.

For more on stopping squirrels specifically, see our guide on how to stop squirrels climbing your fence.

Common questions

Can you put spikes on top of any garden fence?

Yes — you can fit deterrent spikes to your own fence, wall, or structure without planning permission in the UK, provided they're on your own property. The spikes must be of a type that deters rather than harms, and any spike product used near a public path must carry appropriate signage. Standard humane polypropylene spike strips meet these requirements.

How do I stop pigeons landing on just one section of fence where the post caps are?

Post caps are often the first place pigeons return to after the rail is spiked, because they're still flat and unprotected. Fit short sections of spike strip to each post cap, or choose a spike strip that's flexible enough to bend and wrap around the cap profile. If the cap is uPVC and you'd rather not screw into it, waterproof adhesive pads hold spike strips reliably on smooth plastic surfaces.

Will cheap spikes from a pound shop work just as well?

For a season, sometimes — but cheap polypropylene spikes that use recycled or unspecified plastic tend to go brittle after one or two winters outdoors, snapping at the base when they take any stress. UV exposure accelerates this significantly. Spikes made from UV-stabilised virgin polypropylene hold their flexibility and strength for years rather than months, which matters if you're fitting a full fence run and don't want to redo it annually.